Reporter's Namesake Sandwich: A Personal Tour of Portland's Reubens

Key Facts

Reporter: Reuben M. Schafir, Press Herald reporter
Traditional Reuben ingredients: Corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, Russian dressing, rye bread
The Local Press Reuben price: $14.95
Andy's Old Port Pub Reuben price: $19
Docks Seafood haddock Reuben price: $20
Thirsty Pig Reuben-style hotdog price: $10

Background

Reuben M. Schafir, a Press Herald reporter, has a personal connection to the Reuben sandwich: his first name. The connection began in childhood when a summer camp counselor nicknamed him 'Sauerkraut' during a word-association game. At the time, Schafir was a pescetarian who had never tried the sandwich, but the nickname proved prescient.

The traditional Reuben is a grilled sandwich of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on rye bread. Many places now use Thousand Island dressing, a close relative that omits horseradish. The sandwich's origins are disputed, with claims ranging from an Omaha hotel in the 1920s to Reuben's Restaurant in New York in 1914.

Current Situation

Schafir visited several Portland establishments to sample Reubens. At The Local Press, owner Casey Sheehan serves a traditional Reuben ($14.95) named after his high school friend Flip. Sheehan stacks about 6 ounces of Boar's Head corned beef on Botto's Bakery marbled rye, grills it on a panini press without compressing, resulting in a crusty, salty sandwich.

At Andy's Old Port Pub, the Reuben ($19) features house-made sauerkraut and Thousand Island, but uses mass-produced corned beef that is thinner and shredded. The marbled rye is plush, and the sandwich is served in a casual back room. Riffs include a haddock Reuben at Docks Seafood ($20), a Reuben-style hotdog at The Thirsty Pig ($10), and a vegetarian Reuben at The Great Lost Bear ($14.99).

Reuben Prices at Portland Establishments
Establishment	Item	Price
The Local Press	Traditional Reuben	$14.95
Andy's Old Port Pub	Reuben	$19
Docks Seafood	Haddock Reuben	$20
The Thirsty Pig	Reuben-style hotdog	$10
The Great Lost Bear	Vegetarian Reuben	$14.99

Prices as reported in the article.

Impacts

The Reuben is a popular menu item, ranking in the top five at The Local Press and top four at Andy's Old Port Pub. At Docks Seafood, front-of-house lead Morgan Betts estimates that one in four tables orders the haddock Reuben. Owner Chris Mills emphasizes the restaurant's focus on honoring local fried seafood.

The variations show how the Reuben's core elements can be adapted, but they often omit sauerkraut, which Schafir notes is a key component. The traditional combination of corned beef, sauerkraut, and Swiss on rye creates a unique chemistry that riffs cannot match, highlighting the sandwich's enduring appeal.

Future Outlook

Scenario analysis: The possibilities below are not certain predictions.

If the trend of creative riffs continues, more restaurants may offer unconventional Reuben variations, potentially broadening its appeal. However, traditionalists may continue to prefer the classic recipe, ensuring that the original remains a staple.

The Reuben's popularity could grow if more establishments make their ingredients in-house, as seen at Andy's and The Thirsty Pig. Yet, the sandwich's acquired taste may limit its mass appeal, keeping it a beloved but niche menu item.

Should the debate over its origins persist, it may add to the sandwich's mystique, but it is unlikely to affect its consumption. The Reuben's future likely depends on balancing tradition with innovation, as chefs and home cooks alike explore new interpretations.

Source: pressherald.com

AMRIT EXPLAINER